Photo 8: Because there are so few joints to fill,
grouting large format tiles takes less time than smaller tiles.
Art & Decorative Tile Techniques
Photo 1: With a single tile from front to back, and a grout joint only every two
feet, 24-inch porcelain tiles are ideal for a low-maintenance, high performance
countertop.
Technology has allowed porcelain tile to grow from its
humble origins as 1- or 2-inch mosaics to tiles exceeding 24- and 36-inches.
Even larger tiles are available and on the drawing board from many tile
companies. Large tiles are great because they reduce grout joints and provide a
look that is incomparable, but not all large format tiles are alike, with some
being so deformed as to render them almost impossible to install without
excessive lippage.
Unlike smaller
tiles that can more easily conform to a less-than-smooth surface, large format
tiles require a very flat surface for a smooth finish, and as the tile size
increases, so, too, must the degree of flatness.
For
example, the industry standard of 1/4- inch in 10-feet is fine for 4-, 6-, or
8-inch tiles, but for 10- to 14-inch tiles, the standard should be improved to
1/8-inch in 10-feet.
For tiles 16- to 24-inches, the setting bed surface
should be flat, level, plumb, and smooth to within 1/16-inch in 10-feet. As a
matter of policy, I generally specify a self-leveling underlayment for all
floors finished with tiles larger than 14-inches.
In
addition to a flatter surface, large format tiles also require a thicker layer
of adhesive for full and complete bonding.
Layout, Ordering, and Waste
Photo 2: The author spreads
medium bed thinset mortar with a ¾-inch U-notch trowel.
All tile installations need materials
lists that include sealer, sealant, grout, adhesive, membrane systems, backer
boards, and tiles. Ordering tiles less than 10-inches is a relatively simple
process because the small tile modules easily adapt to varying sizes. For
example, with one-inch tiles, it is not difficult to have full-tile-only
installations, but unless a structure has been designed and sized for full-tile
units, achieving full-tile-only installations with large format tiles may be
difficult or impossible. Time spent on the drawing board is essential for optimizing
the layout of large format tiles. The countertop supporting the 24-inch
porcelain tiles shown in Photo 1 was designed so that full tiles could be paired with
companion cove tiles.
Breakage of large format tiles, during shipping or cutting,
can have a significant effect on tile stocks. Unlike smaller tiles, whose
per-unit cost is relatively small, the per-unit cost of large format tiles can
be significant, and old rules of thumb such as ordering a blanket 5- or
10-percent extra don’t work very well. I inspect all tiles at the showroom,
distributor, or jobsite, and accept only whole, unbroken tiles. I work
carefully when cutting and handling, and depending on the size of the
installation, opt for a rather small number of extra tiles. I try to purchase
enough full boxes of tile to cover a specific area, using any leftovers to fill
in for any tile broken during installation. If I have to re-order, purchasing
stock with the original lot numbers is critical to color matching.
Surface Prep for Large Format Tiles
Photo 3: Each tile is back buttered with a ¾-inch
U-notch trowel.
Large format tiles are able to distribute compressive loads
better than smaller tiles, but they still require the same stable base as other
ceramic tiles. The L/360 minimum deflection standard for ceramic tiles can
always be upgraded to L/480, L/720, or even higher, to match increased
load-carrying capacity, or meet higher customer expectations for a solid, low
deflection floor. Since backer boards do not increase structural strength, it
is especially important to ensure that both whole-floor (uniform deflection)
and between-joist deflection (concentrated deflection) meet the desired
standard. Deflection should not be a problem on concrete slab-on-grade
installations, but on upper floor or suspended installations, deflection is
such that a crack isolation membrane system is usually required.
On
wood floor systems, my strategy is simple: I prefer to visually inspect the
structural under-pinnings of any wood floor system, to look for joist size,
joist spacing, pier spacing and other details, and make corrections or shim as
needed to provide solid support to the subflooring. I avoid the industry
minimums whenever possible, and prefer to specify and install 3/4-inch
exterior-grade plywood subflooring, and follow this layer with another layer of
3/4-inch plywood – oriented perpendicular to the subfloor – as the
underlayment.
To
maximize the strength of this two-layer plywood combination, I use a Type III
waterproof glue, and secure the boards with flooring screws set every six-inches.
To reduce an installation’s profile, I may use 5/8-inch ply for installations
that do not require maximum performance, but never use plywood thinner than
5/8-inch (Nom.).
On installations where a self-leveling underlayment (SLU)
is desired, a perimeter barrier of 1/4-inch thick foam provides the required
movement joint space that is necessary for such installations to endure –
especially when large format tiles are installed. A perimeter movement joint is
required for all tile installations regardless of size, location, type of
installation, or materials used.
If a membrane system
is required for sound reduction, crack isolation, or waterproofing, special
care must be used to ensure a smooth, flat finish wherever the membrane sheet
or reinforcing fabric overlaps.
Adhesives
Photo 4:
Deflection-free
spacers, designed for framing, are used to temporarily hold the tiles in place
until the thinset hardens.
Only medium-bed, latex, or
100% solids epoxy thinset mortars should be considered for adhering large
format porcelain tiles. Regular, unmodified thinset mortars develop very low
strength values when cured to the thickness required for some large format
tiles. Latex mortars offer potentially higher strength over unmodified, but
they may also require a longer curing time, especially when covered by the
large format canopy, and when used at the increased thickness required for
larger tiles.
Organic mastics, in my opinion, are totally inappropriate
for large format tiles. Under large format tiles, large amounts of organic
mastic may remain soft and uncured for months or years, leading to an eventual
loss of compressive strength and subsequent cracking, disbonding, etc. There
are also adhesion problems with porcelain tiles and mastic.
In addition to the question of quality is quantity: large
format tiles eat up a lot of thinset mortar. In Photo 2, I am using a
deep, 3/4-inch U-notch trowel to spread a layer of thinset over a shower wall.
In Photo 3,
I am using the same trowel to back-butter the back of the tile, using the
industry recommended method of keying the adhesive into the back of the tile
with the smooth edge of the trowel, and gauging a uniform amount with the
trowel’s notched edge. Notice that the adhesive ridges of the tile’s back are
aligned with the adhesive ridges spread on the wall. As a tile is shimmed away
from a wall with thinset, its resistance to sagging decreases; consequently,
firm support is required until the adhesive sets up firm (Photo 4).
Installation
Photo 5:
To reduce stress
on the tile, the author uses a wood wedge and tension provided by the margin
trowel to remove the tile for inspection.
Fundamentally, there is no difference between the
installation of large and small tiles. Each tile needs to be fully supported in
a bed of adhesive, aligned with its neighbors, and finished with grout or
movement joints, as needed. With large format tiles, this can be a challenge,
but like any other tiles, it helps to have a level foundation.
For
these 24-inch porcelain tiles, the foundation is a row of cove tiles. With
these trim tiles aligned and installed, I can concentrate on aligning the faces
of the tiles into a single, plumb plane. Air pockets and voids within the layer
of thinset mortar reduce bond and compressive strengths, and invite the
intrusion of moisture, mold, and mildew.
To ensure each tile
is in-plane with no adhesive voids, I apply thinset to the wall, back-butter
and install the tile, adjust it for plumb and plane, and then remove it to
check the adhesive “signature” on the back of the tile. Normally, a flick of
the trowel is all it takes to remove a small tile, but to remove this large
format tile — because its broad expanse presents a very powerful adhesive grip
— I use a wooden wedge and tension with a margin trowel to gradually pry the
tile away from the grip of the wall (Photo 5).
Photo 6:
To reduce squeeze-out through the joints,
excess thinset is removed from around the tile.
A quick read of the adhesive ridges
provides the necessary clues: ridges that are not completely flattened require
additional mortar. I add a liberal amount of thinset, usually enough to assure
some squeeze-out, then replace, and realign the tile. After alignment, the tile
face is cleaned, and excess thinset removed from around the tile’s edges (Photo 6). This process is
repeated until each wall is finished.
Spacers
are a requirement for wall installations, but normal tile spacers are too soft
to support the weight of a large format tile; instead, I position spacers,
normally used for wood framing, that won’t deflect under the weight.
Large format tiles
are appropriate for any location. I especially like tiling countertops with
24-inch tiles backed with cove tiles at the backsplash. Photo 7 shows how excess thinset mortar is removed from
the space occupied by the cove tile. After the field tiles are installed, I
install the single-row cove tile backsplash, then the V-cap tiles, using a
bridge made from straightedges to help align and support these trims.
Photo 7:
To clean out the
space occupied by the cove tile, the author uses a narrow margin trowel to
remove the excess thinset mortar.
Because of the unusually thick layer of thinset mortar, and
the fact that large format tiles slow down the evaporation of moisture from the
adhesive layer, I give the tiles at least 48 hours to rest and harden before
grouting (Photo 8). Since there are so few grout joints,
this portion of the installation should be relatively simple. The grout should
cure at least 72 hours before filling the movement joints with sealant or
caulk.
Large
format tiles present a clean, modern look with built-in low maintenance. Just
keep in mind that large format tiles require extra materials and labor to
install.
MichaelByrne www.michaelbyrne.us Michael
Byrne has been a tile installer since 1968 working on residential, commercial,
industrial, artistic and specialty installations. He is the author of two books, numerous videos and hundreds of
articles on tile installation. Michael has worked as an independent consultant
on installations in North, Central and South America, the UK and Europe, and is
one of the founders and was the first president and executive director of the
Ceramic Tile Education Foundation (CTEF). Michael is the owner of a consulting,
expert witness, and publishing company in Los Olivos, CA.
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